If you look at Caygill’s
categories, she mainly only refers to gray hair in Patrician and Distingue’ Dynamic Winters (and one autumn, Pewter Autumn). Someone told me that at that time, Caygill only thought Winters looked good going gray (but another friend of mine said that’s not in her book).
Keep in mind that everyone becomes more cool with age. Your hair may look like it is becoming more Summer or Winter, which are the cool seasons, but your complexion will still remain in one of the warm seasons, if that was your season in youth. Your overall palette should remain the same. You may make minor adjustments, because we can always match our hair, so your tone of grays may be added to your palette.
“Cool seasons such as Summers and Winters gray gracefully because they already have a cool coloring.” source
“Most Winter seasons flow into Cool Winter as they age, and salt and pepper hair is frequent.” source
“Other season types move into Winter expression as their hair turns gray or white, and they find they can express themselves more effectively by adopting a dramatic styling. For instance, when a Summer type with pink and white skin becomes white-haired and continues to wear soft blues, pinks, pastel lavenders, the results may not be as chic as a change to the rich purplish blues and deep lavenders so flattering to Winter. She might also employ pearl gray with deep magenta as an accent, or bottle green with crisp white.” Suzanne Caygill
CMAS ABSOLUTE SPRING — usually has blonde or silver hair.
Gray Haired Springs: “Springs with more than 50% gray are no long in harmony with browns. Use blues and purples. Spring/Winters follow True/Absolute Spring when hair goes gray *Gray haired Springs can now go blonde if they chose to color their hair. Keep the blonde on the warm side, no ash tones. When Springs go gray they either open up new colors for themselves or shut some down. No longer are they in harmony with browns. Blues and purples become more important to them. Some who have had dark hair and were striking now can follow the Absolute instructions better. They may be able to wear more colors together than previously done. The Gray Haired Spring might now color her hair blonde. It looks quite natural on them & goes nicely with their colors. ”
Whether by design or with some help, Springs who are blonde will have a warm, yellow gray look.
Betty White is a Spring that had been a mousy brunette,
Paula Deen is a silver haired Spring, who looks like she used to be strawberry blonde.
CMAS ABSOLUTE SUMMER — “brownette” usually has light brown hair, it could also be gray.
Gray Haired Summers: “If hair is more than 50% gray, eliminate the brows and use gray, blue and violet. If they chose to color their hair try ash tones of platinum or cool taupe.Follow the directions for the Absolute Summer but take out the browns, stressing gray, blue and violet. Give all bouquet colors except Summer Brown. Since we do not know if the client had ash brown, somewhat brown or even red hair in earlier years we may need to determine that before assigning any specific colors. The Absolute markings will probably work. Do take out the following numbers because the gray hair is no longer flattered by brown.”
Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth, is a Type 2 (Segerstrom)
Joanne Woodward is also a Type 2 (Segerstrom)
CMAS GENTLE AUTUMN — This brunette or silver-grey haired Autumn type is mixed with Summer which adjusts their temperament reactions to frustrating things. The Gentle type has a light hair coloring. Mixed with Summer the personality will be quieter, but inwardly more stubborn.
Gray Haired Autumns: “More than 50% gray use Blues, Grays and Violet. If silver gray haired use Autumn/Winter markings. If they chose, they can color their hair red or if complimentary strawberry blonde. Also some can even go a warm golden blonde. The gray haired Autumn has an important change in the body harmony colors. Instead of brown or red hair they change to a complete neutral. No longer are they in harmony with browns. Grays and blues now become distinct possibilities and the violet which was so long ignored by them becomes a very flattering color. If the eyes are brown then brown is still good but not as effective as it once was. Suggest using the warm gray as a suit and a brown silk blouse with it. If hair goes more to the silver than the slate gray, she may adopt colors from the Striking Autumn colors. Many women who used to be gray will color the hair red which is becoming.”
Joan Baez may have gone from Deep Autumn to Cool Winter.
CMAS ABSOLUTE WINTER — If you have dark hair (black or silver) and light skin , or if your hair is very dark and your skin is dark.
Gray Haired Winters: “Winters with 50% or more gray hair but not completely white mark the same as a Winter/Summer, Winters with silver/white hair that need contrast mark the same as a True/Absolute, Winters with silver/white hair that need pure color mark the same as Winter/Spring. The Winter individual with gray hair has opened up a door of color that most could not do before. When it is first graying the hair begins to lighten and may even be a mousy color. You can see if this person was dressed in lighter pastels it would make all of them non contrasting. If in going lighter you go to the icy pastels then the complexion is still flattered. Follow Snowfrost rules. If hair is a lovely silver-white then the look is going to be Absolute or Firelight. You can tell if she needs contrast with black added (put her in absolute), or pure color contrast (assign her Firelight). Follow the directions of the type you see the person to be. “
Emmy Lou Harris
Jamie Lee Curtis is always put in the Cool Winter section with her gray hair. But she probably was Spring in her youth.
With her gray hair, Helen Mirren is also now typed a Winter, but certainly wasn’t in her youth, unless she was Firelight Winter?
Ali MacGraw seems to be a Dark Winter and has grayed beautifully.